Great Barrier Island vignettes 2020, Part 3

This post is about Gail's &  my visit to (a) the northern part of Great Barrier Island and (b) Tryphena on the West coast. I've also included photos of us as carefree schoolgirls in 1963-1964.

Tuesday, January 14, 2020

LL from Port Fitzroy had invited us to lunch, and so we collected the Englishman from his home and drove north on winding Aotea Road. This road, which was unsealed before Great Barrier became part of Auckland Super City, climbs up through bush and ferns – the scenery is completely different to the dry south. LL and his wife have built a fine house incorporating a tourist flat overlooking Port Fitzroy. LL said he can feel his guests begin to unwind as soon as they reach this beautiful spot. A builder by trade, he also is a keen reader. He said he educated himself by reading novels – and that my World War II novel Deserter; a novel based on true events* is exactly the sort of book he likes to read. David promised to lend him his copy.

Great Barrier is an excellent place for outdoor recreation. All Department of Conservation land on the island became the Aotea Conservation Park in April 2015, and the Department has issued a booklet with a detailed map of walking and tramping tracks, and routes, along with DOC Campsites and huts, and areas where mountain bikes can be used.

DOC map of Great Barrier Island walking tracks. Photo Ann Barrie 2020

By early afternoon there was a dramatic change in the weather. When we arrived on Sunday, David was badly needing rain to fill – or at least half fill – his tank. Today his wish was granted. The rain bought low visibility, and despite Great Barrier Air’s sophisticated navigation systems, at least one of their planes was unable to land. Two stranded tourists arrived at Wiltshire Manor: Luke and Lucille, young English doctors who had spent a fortnight tramping on the Barrier.

David’s ‘guest in residence’, I’ll call him Tony, proved a great help in showing new guests the ropes. He’s a long time Barrier resident who enjoys buying top quality photographic equipment and tramping boots but resents spending money on his car. This vehicle has long been unwarranted and unregistered – many locals used to drive that way – but Tony was pulled up the other day by the local policeman. The latter was very reasonable and gave him 28 days to replace four tyres, get the brakes fixed, and arrange for the rust cut out. Gail and I suggested it might be cheaper to buy a new car, but Tony likes his old one. 

Wednesday January 15, 2020.

Fortunately for the stranded tourists, the rain cleared. Once he'd seen them off, David drove us over the spine of hills to Tryphena on the West Coast for coffee at the Mulberry Grove General Store. Gail and I shared a large almond Danish pastry flown over from Auckland. The café/store was buzzing with tourists who'd arrived on the ferry; and two sisters played lively duets on the piano.

Mulberry Grove General Store, Great Barrier Island. Photo Ann Barrie 2020

In the afternoon, green-fingered Gail and I went for a stroll and she added to her collection of cuttings (it doesn’t include protected plants). The collection includes a yellow daisy from LL’s wife; a Scarborough lily from David; and peppermint-scented pelargonium and a hedging plant from David's Kaitoke friend. 

Gail Watson on Great Barrier Island. Photo Ann Barrie 2020

At 6 o’clock we were entertained to dinner at the Englishman’s house. He had fought off his jet lag to prepare us Italian-style spaghetti with homemade tomato sauce, fresh asparagus and a poached egg. A professional man who took early retirement, he acknowledges he’s out of condition and lacking motivation. Gail and I suggested he could find an enthusiastic business partner and set up a gym in his basement – he could charge others to use the gym. There are already other enterprises at Claris including electric bike hire, a chippery, and a sarong shop.

Sarong shop at Claris, Great Barrier Island. Photo Ann Barrie Jan. 2020

*

From the photo album: (1) Papakura High School sports day 1963. Jill Mitchel in track suit, Robyn Stuart in school uniform; Val George, Ann Herbert & Gail Watson in sports rompers and ready to cheer on Freyburg House.

Papakura High school 16-year olds out cycling in the country. From left to right: Annette Hawke, Val George, Gail Watson, Elizabeth Tremaine, Jacky Fagan, and, on horseback, Iris de Malmanche:

https://www.amazon.com/Deserter-novel-based-true-events/dp/0473390655

Blog by Ann Barrie. To be continued.