Leeds 2019 – Brewery Wharf, Canal walks, Victorian gems, Royal Armouries Museum

My Borthwick and Moss forebears came from Yorkshire, and in July I holidayed there with a friend. I arrived in Leeds by train from Derbyshire, using East Midlands from Matlock, and then Trans Rail from Derby; and Valerie drove from Kent, breaking her trip at Todmoreden. I found Leeds Railway Station confusing – it is currently being upgraded – but an obliging man at the Travel Counter rustled round for a map and marked my route along New Station Road to Boar Lane and Duncan Street, and then along Call Lane to the Calls, and across the Centennial Bridge.

Leeds: Centennial Bridge with Jurys Inn Hotel, Brewery Wharf in background. Ann Barrie 2019

Our Leeds hotel, Jurys Inn, is on Brewery Wharf, an area created from an area of waterfront formerly occupied by Tetley's Brewery. Our room overlooks Brewery Place, and we have a fine view. I enjoy the detail: joggers, cyclists and pedestrians crossing Centennial bridge, many of them on their way to or from work; Sainsburys local; the River Aire, lined with brick warehouse buildings; the solid tower and clock faces of Leeds Minster; the mix of old and new buildings; trains glimpsed speeding past in the gaps; cranes on the skyline.

Leeds: Centennial Bridge. Ann Barrie 2019

Tower of Leeds Minster. Ann Barrie 2019

Leeds: Victorian Arcade. Ann Barrie 2019

There is something interesting around every corner in Leeds. For instance, the city has spectacular Victorian arcades – Queens Arcade, Thornton’s Arcade and the Victorian Quarter. ... There is a lot of sculpture, both in the arcades and elsewhere in the city.

Leeds: Sculpture in Arcade. Ann Barrie 2019

Leeds: decorative detail in Victorian Arcade. Ann Barrie 2019

Other Victorian gems include Europe’s largest indoor market, Kirkgate Market:

Leeds: Kirkgate Market. Ann Barrie & Valierie Gardner 2019

and the Corn Exchange with its awe-inspiring domed roof: 

Leeds: Corn Exchange. Ann Barrie 

This photo shows the view from the balcony where we ate tapas calientes. The tapas proved to be unexpectedly hearty: cordero de harissa (roast lamb shoulder), patatas bravas (roast and fried sliced new potatoes), coliflor asado (roast cauliflower with rich tomato sauce and aioli):

We were assured by the Leeds Information Centre that water taxis which run every 20 minutes between Granary Wharf and Leeds Dock are free. We were, therefore, nonplussed when the pilot told us we'd get the painful bit over first – there was a £1 charge as of three weeks ago. It's a modest amount, and we paid, but later, as I watched cheerful groups on other water taxis I couldn't help wondering if they had paid – or if their trip had been free as advertised.

Leeds water taxi. Ann Barrie 2019

Leeds water taxi. Ann Barrie 2019

The most exciting of the museums we visited was the Royal Armouries Museum, Britain’s national museum of arms and armour, formerly housed in the Tower of London. This museum is free, while encouraging donations, and has many facilities and activities for families, including cafés, picnic areas, themed weekends (‘test your skills on our crossbow range’), daily shows, and demonstrations such as ‘Combat: Two handed sword fighting’.

Royal Armouries Museum, Hall of Steel. Ann Barrie 2019

Royal Armouries Museum, War Elephant Armour. Ann Barrie 2019

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The Leeds and Liverpool Canal was completed in 1816 and links the cities of Leeds and Liverpool. Over a distance of 127 miles (204 km), it crosses the Pennines, and includes 91 locks on the main line. 

Leeds Liverpool Canal, distance marker. Ann Barrie 2019

One morning we walked two miles down the River Aire to Thwaite Mills Watermill, which is on an island in the Aire and Calder waterway, and is a fully restored working water-powered mill built in 1823-25; it is an industrial museum now but was not open the day we visited, and so it was hard to get a feel for the place. 
The walk itself was interesting with old brick structures, and small interpretative panels about the local flora and fauna. We also came across a display staffed by an officer from the Canal and River Trust, who used to be Chief Executive for Telstra in the Pacific. He told us the Trust was launched in 2012 taking over the guardianship of British Waterway’s 2,000 miles of canals, rivers, reservoirs and docks in England and Wales.

Another day we walked in the opposite direction, up the Leeds & Liverpool Canal to Armley Mills. We were bemused by two barges which had clearly been there a long time. The 'soft toy' barge gave the impression someone was on board because of the gently fluttering flags, but there was such a profusion of toys there was no room for humans:

Leeds & Liverpool Canal, 'soft toy barge'. Ann Barrie 2019

The 'yoga' barge – creative in its construction, and with a floating bathtub attached – offered yoga classes and meditation:

Leeds & Liverpool Canal, 'yoga barge'. Ann Barrie 2019

We did not see any barges or boats navigating this section of the canal.  It would require fortitude since there are a lot of locks, and heavy oak paddles need to be pushed manually to open and close the locks.

Leeds & Liverpool Canal, oak paddle at lock. Ann Barrie 2019

Leeds & Liverpool canal, lock. Ann Barrie 2019

We noticed as we walked along the canal that the code of conduct stressed that pedestrians had priority but, as in Beziers, it was a case of 'walker beware'. It was mostly woman cyclists who thanked us for moving to one side when they came racing along.

Leeds, Aire Valley, towpath code of conduct. Ann Barrie 2019

Armley Mills was once the world’s biggest woollen mill, and is now home to The Leeds Industrial Museum. ‘Do you know that Leeds used to have 1,000 trades?’ the attendant said to us. Everything from sharp suits to printing presses, film and steam engines has been made in Leeds. You can get close to looms and spinning mules and discover how work has changed through time; there is also a large collection of large and small engines, film projectors and printing presses; and you can learn how the mill engine and waterwheels power the mill.

At 5.00 pm we began the two-mile walk back to Calls Wharf.  The towpath was busy with people walking or cycling home from work. What an agreeable commute! As for Valerie and me, we sat in the dappled shade on the grass verge and ate two enormous oranges to refresh us.

Leeds, cyclists on towpath. Ann Barrie 2019

Blog by Ann Barrie