Europe June 2019 - Paris to Lourdes

On my European trips, I never believe I am really going until the plane lifts off the ground. At 1.30 pm on 21 May, SQ248, Wellington to Singapore via Melbourne, did not lift off the ground. We were in our seats, and had taxied out to the runway when the captain announced a mechanical problem that would require us to return to the gate. It seemed hopeful that a part could quickly be found, but in the end our flight was aborted and rescheduled for 8 am next day. Singapore Airlines provided us with hotels and taxi chits. I chatted with a Sikh couple who were taking their grandson to New Delhi; and with Mireille, who coincidentally was on the same flight as me – she once came to our house for dinner, and she vividly recalls my late husband, Bill, telling her which New Zealand potatoes are best.

In Singapore, we were provided with hotel accommodation for our 6 to 8-hour layover. I teamed up with a young Englishman whose French grandmother had just died – he would now arrive too late for her funeral in Nimes Cathedral. He and I were both placed at Grand Mercure Singapore Roxy on East Coast Road, where there was an excellent buffet. A waitress called Susan, delighted that I wished to try the pig stomach soup, took me under her wing. I told her my late husband would equally have enjoyed it, and that he and I had a very happy 10-day holiday in Singapore more than 15 years ago.

Our flight SQ336, Singapore to Paris, was so quiet that I was not aware of the plane taking off. Possibly this was extreme tiredness. I had a generous amount of foot room, and the German-made pressure stockings, which I had resorted to for the first time, stopped all swelling of the legs.

At Paris CDG airport, despite considerable trepidation – I seem to be losing travel confidence as I age – I caught the RER regional train to Cité Universitaire, and then the tramway to Porte de Vanves in the 14^th arrondissement from whence I walked the short distance to my friend Dominique’s apartment in Rue Vercingetorix. We had a late breakfast of patisseries and strawberries on her balcony, which has a view of the Eiffel Tower, and we caught up on two years’ gossip.

Later, we walked to the Jardin du Luxembourg. It was a mild, Spring afternoon. The trees were clad in light green, so different to our dark foliage down under. There were people playing tennis and boules; and others seated at small tables playing bridge and chess. We visited the exhibition at the Musée du Luxembourg, Les Nabis et le décor. The Nabis were a group of young artists including Bonnard, Vuillard and Maurice Dennis, who came together in the late 1880's to assert their opposition to impressionism, which they considered too close to reality, and to give painting an essentially decorative role. They referred to themselves as Nabis, which means ‘prophets’ in Hebrew and Arabic. 

Maurice Dennis, Arabesque poétique, 1892

In the evening, we walked out again, to the leafy courtyard of a crêperie in Rue Daguerre and a reunion with Pascale, who looked after me when I spent three months at the Bibliothèque nationale de France in 2005.

Breakfast on a Paris balcony. Photo Ann Barrie

Next morning, I walked along rue Vercingetorix to Gare Montparnasse where I caught my TGV to Lourdes. I always enjoy this trip, this transition between Paris and the foothills of the Pyrenees.

Lundi le 28 mai. Tuesday 28 May

2019 is the 7^th time I have served as a bénévole (volunteer) at the Cité St Pierre which is on 32 hectares and is located 20 minutes' walk from the sanctuaries at Lourdes.  I am here for a fortnight. The six pavillons (residences) each accommodate about 50 people – parish groups, and others making pilgrimages to Lourdes. Bénévoles are need to help run the place. I am based at Ozanam this time. This photo, taken from the balcony of my room, looks across at the neighbouring pavillon, St Vincent de Paul, where I was based two years ago. 

Pavillon St Vincent de Paul, Cité St Pierre, Lourdes, 2019.  Ann Barrie

I always personalise my bedside table when travelling overseas. The photo is Bill in our early days; the handkerchief was mine as a girl; and the pebble is from a Wellington nun, a reminder that many people's prayers and good wishes go with me:

Bedside table, Lourdes, 2019.  Ann Barrie 

I was surprised to learn there is a shortage of bénévoles this year. Belgian Linda is here with me at present, but when she returns home on Wednesday, I will be here alone. Bénévoles from other pavillons are rostered to help me with the permanence (reception duties) from noon to 10.30 pm. Here is a photo of the office:

Acceuil (Reception) at Pavillon Ozanam, Cité St Pierre, Lourdes, 2019.  Ann Barrie

I already know some of the other bénévoles from my previous visits to the Cité St Pierre – for example, Raymonde, who is very efficient with cleaning, all the while wearing enormously high heels (haut talons). She presented me with this beret she had knitted, and she showed me how to wear it with French flair:

Ann Barrie modelling beret knitted by Raymonde. Cité St Pierre, Lourdes, 2019. e

When cleaning and making up rooms, we work in pairs. (There is a planning meeting each Friday, which a permanent staff member and a religious sister also attend). This photo shows some of the tools of our trade. The produit blue is used for the dusting, and the produit rose for the sanitaires (toilet, shower and wash basin), and there are appropriate rags for each of these. The knife and toothbrush are useful for the showers. We also use large industrial vacuum cleaners, and chariots containing two buckets for mopping the floors.

Cleaning products, Cité St Pierre, Lourdes, 2019.  Ann Barrie

The groups of pilgrims, after their stay of three days or so, depart in the mornings, and they are responsible for bringing their sheets to the reception and returning their security cards by 8.00 am: 

Reminder for departing pilgrims, Cité St Pierre, Lourdes, 2019.  Ann Barrie

The day before Linda returned to her Belgian village, she and I walked down the hill to the sanctuaries in order to participate in the international choir for the Procession des malades (procession of those who are ill), which takes place each day at 5.00 pm. We chatted about her country. I told her that in 1919, the King of the Belgians honoured my Scottish grandmother with the Médaille de la Reine Elisabeth (Queen Elisabeth medal) for her work with Belgian refugees in London. Linda said – and it is true – that one of the beautiful things about Lourdes is the rencontres, the meetings. Who would have thought that a New Zealand bénévole would have this special Belgian connection?

It is not all work at the Cité St Pierre. The programme of social activities has already included apéritifs and bouquets for Fête des mères (I had two Mothers’ Days this year) ; film evenings ; and a festive dinner hosted by the Italian and Romanian bénévoles.

Apératifs laid out for Fête des Mères, Cité St Pierre, Lourdes, 2019.  Ann Barrie

Chicken dinner and bouquet, Cité St Pierre, Lourdes, 2019.  Ann Barrie

We have one day’s leave a week (pressure of work permitting). On Thursday, I accompanied Annie, Ginette, and Véronique on a five km walk to the village of Bartrès which is strongly associated with Bernadette Soubirous. It was a glorious day with temperatures of 28° (it was cold and wet for my first few days at Lourdes). Here we are against a backdrop of the famous basilica before we begin our climb out of Lourdes:

Annie, Ginette and Ann Barrie at Lourdes, May 2019

And here we are in front of the bergerie where Bernadette would often shelter with her little flock of sheep. We had a gourmet picnic, because Véronique's parents are agriculteurs near Dax and she  brought along some of their terrine made from pork, foie gras and salt and pepper. We ate this with melon, crusty bread, and salads.

Picnic break at the Bergerie of Bernadette Soubirous, Bartrès, 2019

Samedi 1 juin. Saturday 1 June
Back at the Cité we are taking advantage of the sunny weather and eating our déjeuner (lunch) at the long tables outside. I had a long chat to Maria, first generation Italian French, who is energetic and vivacious, lives in Strasbourg and was widowed young. 

After dinner last evening, Ginette, Yvonne and I walked along leafy paths flanked with luscious wildflowers here at the Cité, and then we continued around the lake with its white swans and ducks. Yvonne, like me, married a man considerably older than her (in her case 9 years rather than 16). She, like me, is a fast walker, and so she needs to stop regularly to wait for her husband to catch up. In my case, when Bill and I walked up Cuba Mall on our regular sorties to the Lighthouse Cinema, I would get ahead of Bill and then wheel round and walk back to join him, and then take off again. Bill was amused at this, but it worked.

There is a New Zealander named Glynne staying at Ozanam for two days. He works for Youth for Christ in Biarritz, and is in Lourdes for a Pacific Island rugby weekend. He said it is a huge adjustment for these players to settle in France; the single men seem to pick up French quicker than those here with their wives, as they get French girlfriends. Yesterday, there was a France vs Pacific Island rugby match, and today there was a social gathering with an umu in the park next to the Mairie (town hall). I wandered past, and it was a colourful sight with adults and children speaking French.

Excuse errors (French keyboard). I will blog again after I have been to Toulouse.

Blog by Ann Barrie