Letters from Cuba, June 2009 (6) Trinidad de Cuba

Trinidad de Cuba, Hostel Vivien y Pablo, June 2009

There are thunderstorms in Trinidad de Cuba each afternoon, and this clears the air. Our casa particulara is Hostel Vivien y Pablo in Media Luna which is just above the main square, and is near to Trinidad’s biggest craft market; it is also near the Casa de la Trova and other music spots. The house has large tiled reception rooms, and our bedroom opens onto a beautifully restored Spanish-style courtyard. This house has been passed down through Vivien’s family. It is quite grand, and I think the family has done well through its links with the Paradiso tour company.

Bill Barrie relaxing at Hostel Vivien y Pablo, Trinidad de Cuba, July 2009

Business card for Hostel Vivien y Pablo, Trinidad de Cuba, 2009. Photo: Ann Barrie

Our breakfasts are the same as at other casa particulares: fruit juice, fruit, coffee, and eggs the way you want them. 

Bill Barrie feeding the cat at breakfast. Hostel Vivien y Pablo, Trinidad de Cuba, 2009

Our fellow guest at Hostel Vivien y Pablo is Denis, a jovial Australian, aged 60, who had a stroke three years ago and now spends his life travelling on full salary. 

Chicken dinner, Hostel Vivien y Pablo, Trinidad de Cuba, 2009  Photo: Ann Barrie

Bill and I have eaten only one dinner here – a chicken meal. 
Pablo, the proprietor, told us that his brother is a fisherman and would catch fresh lobster for us – but we decided against a lobster meal after Bill saw the freezer crammed full of lobster tails. Classically-trained chef that he is, Bill nearly wept when he saw the hard-working maid preparing Denis's lobster meal – she simply placed the frozen tails on a hot grill and drenched them with salt.

Trinidad de Cuba was founded by Spanish explorer Diego Velzuez in 1514. With its red-tiled roofs, pastel-coloured buildings, and shaded courtyards, it is the main tourist spot outside Havana, and is a UNESCO world heritage site. We were initially rather disoriented and disappointed, but, as is often the case, once we began scratching beneath the surface, the town became increasingly interesting.

There is live music everywhere in Trinidad. We went to the Casa de la Musica, which is in the open air, halfway up the steps by the cathedral. Slim-hipped young Cuban men were dancing with tourists (Denis said the men are gigolos). We have been to the Casa de la Trova twice, and we heard two different 7-8 piece bands, always with double bass, guitar, maracas, and often a trumpet, too. We also listened to a group playing African music in a leafy outdoor bar. Groups often compose their own music, and they request you to buy their CD, or otherwise to leave a small donation. 

Musicians at Casa de la Trova, Trinidad de Cuba. Photo: Ann Barrie, 2009

One morning, Bill and I followed the rhythmic sound of drums – it led us to a school of dance where black Cuban children were rehearsing for a festival:

Children at a school of dance, Trinidad de Cuba, 2009. Photo: Ann Barrie

On the way home, I stopped with Denis to listen to a group of men playing on the roadside opposite our accomodation. The men didn’t care whether they had an audience or not – they simply wanted to make music: 

Street musicians, Trinidad de Cuba. Photo: Ann Barrie, July 2009

There is a lot of art for sale in this town. For instance, on the Plaza Mayor there is an attractive balconied building containing the Galeria de Arte Universel. 

Art in gallery in Trinidad de Cuba. Photo: Ann Barrie, 2009

We visited two museums: Museo Historico Municipal, and also Museo Romantico. The latter is housed in a mansion and filled with French, Spanish, German period pieces collected from other Trinidad mansions. There were many attendants, sitting there doing crochet and other handiwork, and I bought a piece from my guide.

Plaza Major, Trinidad’s beautiful central square, has a security presence to stop locals pestering tourists for money. It also has two fine bronze hounds.

Plaza Major with bronze statues of hound, Trinidad de Cuba, 2009. Photo: Ann Barrie

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2019 note: Australian Denis departed Trinidad on the same coach as Bill and me – he is on the left of the following photo, and Bill is on the right. It is poignant to look at this photo and observe my doughty Scottish husband, 16 years my senior, wearing a knee support brace. Nowadays, I need to consider such products for myself – Bill and I would have chuckled about that.

Australian, Denis (L), and New Zealander Bill Barrie (R) heading for Viazul coach, Trinidad de Cuba, 2009

Blog by Ann Barrie