Tuesday 8 January 2019

A glimpse into our life as a VSA on Ambae, Vanuatu/2

This blog contains part 2 of the Christmas 2007 letter sent by my sister Gayle Bowler, from Ambae, Vanuatu, where she and Gary Bowler were doing VSA – Gary  as advisor/mentor to a new school principal, and Gayle as a health educator – and it also contains a letter sent by Gary in early 2008. Gayle's letter first: 

“I love the way the hours seem longer, and often by late morning we feel as if we have had a whole day. We are often asleep before lights are out. We wake early; the mornings are the coolest time.

We feel very happy with an orange glow to our skin which we are sure comes from all the pawpaw we eat and the seasonal pineapples and the biggest avocado imaginable. Sometimes we wonder what we will eat, but we quickly learned that there is food all around us in the jungle and we have had to adjust our diet accordingly.
After four or five weeks of each term we crave western food. This term we had no escape planned but an English couple (friends of friends) anchored in our bay and found us, not hard because apart from albinos you rarely see white people. They took us sailing and spoilt us for one whole day … then they continued their journey around the world.
Living here has heightened our appreciation of small things, like chocolate, wine, a cup of good coffee … cheese is a distant memory.

I have come to realise many things, most of all that I am immensely, inexplicably happy. We swim most days, walk often, read lots and are addicted to Sudoku.
We have discovered that it is true what they say – money doesn’t buy you happiness (though it does give you choice). These people are so happy and they own very little. They have taught us (some) patience and lots more. We love our other life in Coromandel, but this is so real; often I feel like crying with happiness. Students cry at the end of each year because they never know if they will see their friends again; which school they attend depends on their exam results; they have no security or stability and yet they are so accountable.
I have entered into a different mindset, a place where I am satisfied with simple things, yet they are not simple, as they involve trust and love and friendships. It makes me feel empowered and appreciated. We are doing things for others that brings them joy. Feel very happy with simple things: hearing the rain, watching someone climb up and pick us a pawpaw or a coconut and then make us fresh coconut cream. All the happy smiling faces. Being acknowledged by everyone, even if it is ‘Hello Mrs Gary.’
On balance this is one of the most enriching experiences we have ever had and we are looking forward to returning next year, not sure for how long – nothing is for certain here."
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Gary Bowler with school Deputy Principal, Ambae, Vanuatu, 2007   Photo: Bowler Family collection

 And a letter from Gary Bowler to friends and family, written 3 April, 2008, near the beginning of their second year in Ambae:

"It looked for a while as if our Ambae experience would be quite short this year. At the start of our second week, due to local politics, the old Principal announced that he was back and the excellent new Principal was suddenly returned to being Deputy Principal. There was much confusion.
We seriously considered returning home but have now ‘got over ourselves’ and are trying to be as effective as possible in the environment/situation in which we find ourselves rather than trying to change that situation. We got great encouragement from VSA regarding any decision we made re whether we should stay or go, but no encouragement to try and change the political situation. (Fair enough!).
The school has settled down well this year. There are lots of encouraging signs of improvement, including, it has to be said, in the performance of the Principal. So, we will almost certainly be here until at least the August break, by which time we think we will have done what we set out to do at the start of the year.
Gayle is very happy and fulfilled in her health teaching role. She is working with years 8, 9 and 10 as part of the science programme and making cameo appearances in senior classes starting with my year 13. She has started a women’s group which meets on Wednesday afternoons and is a support person for the nurse but has much less involvement in the clinic. Both of us are getting involved in initiating and running a student counselling programme.
I am teaching year 13 history again this year. My students last year did amazingly well. I am mentoring the Deputy Principal to prepare him for when his time comes, and gradually getting his working relationship with the Principal restored. The senior management meetings are back underway. The library modernisation and staff room modernisation project has just started, with initial planning meetings with relevant staff. The new computing teacher is preparing plans for us. We hope to start the quotation process next week. This will keep me occupied for a while. Nothing happens quickly here and most of the work will need to be done in the holidays.
Gayle, that indomitable and never sick person, has been laid low by a bad back. Really struggles to get out of bed some days, and once or twice just could not get up. Had to be helped out of the water by a student a few days ago. She has flown to Vila for assessment and treatment. This came on top of a really nasty dog bite two and half weeks ago. Four dogs were put down, and one was eaten by the boys.
Weather here this year is much cooler, windier and wetter, although not today which is very still and stinking hot. El Nino effect, we think. Surprisingly, not too many mozzies either and no malaria yet in the school. Since the cyclone in January, there are far fewer bananas and pawpaw. Again, very few vegetables. Our current staples are great bread (baked by Gayle), avocado, and dried foods that Gayle brought from New Zealand. Tons of green coconuts to drink, which boys bring us, but the gin is running out!
I had an interesting experience two days ago. The school has an emergency plan with a signal of continuous intermittent bells and drum rolls. This sounded at 5.30 am, the usual getup time. I heard lots of yahooing from the students and thought they were rushing to the assembly point. Off I went, and on arrival found that I was the only person who turned up. April Fools' Day is alive and well on Ambae.
Yesterday, Nik and the grandkids departed for three days in Vila after quite a memorable time with us here. We met in Santo last Thursday for the Easter break; were a day late getting there as our island was cut off by a storm. We then had five days at Aore Island resort, and five days here. Nik was blown away by his experiences, and said that some of those days were the best of his life. Really special family times, and with luck, something all will treasure forever. "
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When I was discussing this blog with Gayle in November 2018, she mentioned that our father, educator Charles M. Herbert, had said to her when she and Gary were considering the Vanuatu posting, “Are you sure you want to commit yourselves for 18-24 months? It’s a big chunk out of your lives?” Gayle said to me, “But I learned so much from our Vanuatu experience – to calm down, to be more engaged, to be present in the moment (even though we didn’t speak in that kind of language back then – and this has stayed with me.”


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